May 2004


 

 

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May 2004

 

Highway Robbery

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No Rush In The Bush

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No Rush In The Bush

It all started with a phone call from Charlotte saying ‘can you be at the airport at 8 tomorrow morning?’ I knew immediately what she meant – there was a flight going to the Kafue Game Park and she wanted me to join them and spend a couple of days at the camp.

Not being one for flying in small planes, I was pretty close to refusing, but we’d been trying to get this sorted out for so long, that there was no way I could back out now. So the next morning I was up before sunrise with a quick stop in at the office to sort out the final things that needed tying up and then I was off to the airport and stepping into some twin-engined aircraft and wishing that the flight was already over. I don’t remember much about the flight except that I spent the entire time with my eyes closed, trying to think of other things; things more pleasant than flying. And it wasn’t too long before we were buzzing the air strip to clear it of any game, circling round and then coming in to land.

Waiting to meet us was Chris McBride and whilst I was still rejoicing at having my feet safely on the ground again, he was herding me into the vehicle, chatting all the while about the area. This continued all the way to the camp and by the time we got there, I had increased my knowledge of the fauna and flora ten or twenty-fold.

Chris has spent much of his sixty odd years in the African bush and did his thesis for his MSc degree on lions. Whilst he was doing his thesis in Timbavati, two white lions were born into a pride that he was already watching and this resulted in a book, The White Lions Of Timbavati, which was translated into eight languages and a feature film was made as well. He subsequently published another book, Liontide and of course, has published many articles in various journals on what seems to be his pet subject, lions. But it is not only lions about which Chris is knowledgeable, it is all kinds of game, birds, trees and plants.

On arrival at the camp, Charlotte, Chris’ wife, was waiting with a much-needed cup of tea. But first, I had to take a long look at the hippos, about thirty of them, sunning themselves on the banks of the Kafue River immediately in front of the camp. What a sight!

The rest of my time there was taken up with game walks which bring you back to the camp in time for a sumptuous brunch; river cruises on the double-decker Fish Eagle; bird-watching in and around the camp; lots of lazing about and of course, eating far too much of the delicious food that Charlotte and her staff produce in their bush kitchen.

The camp is situated in the northern sector of the Kafue National Park, at the confluence of the Kafue and Mushingashi Rivers and is accessible by road, via Mumbwa. But, this access road is the only road in the area and this, is the appeal of McBrides Camp – it is an almost total wilderness - pristine, unspoilt Africa.

The chalets, five of them, are all built of grass, blending completely into the surroundings. But somehow, one does not feel one is living in a thatched hut, for they are all tastefully furnished and decorated; all have the home comforts that one needs and they all have the most delightful open-roofed bathrooms. I also don’t know what they have done to the beds, but I do know that I had the best few nights sleep in a long time. Even the sounds of the lions, hippos and other animals could not keep me from drifting off into peaceful sleep.

Mornings are always a problem for me - firstly to wake up and then to drag myself out of bed. But somehow, at McBrides, this was not a problem. I think much of this had to do with the tea that was delivered to my chalet each morning, piping hot. Anticipation of the morning walk also played its part – what would Chris and Charlotte find for us today? What birds nests filled with eggs? What newly-born animal? What spoor to be followed? And all accompanied by explanations of the why and the how and the when; everything enthusiastically and passionately explained and imparted. Yes, it is not only the surroundings, the chalets and the services which make the difference – it is the knowledge that the McBrides have of the area and it is their pleasant company.

Sadly, one has to leave this dream world and return to the harsh reality of Lusaka and the daily grind. In my case, I had to face the return flight. Had there been a car heading in my direction, I would certainly have thumbed a lift.  But after a few days of complete relaxation; away from civilization; away from ring phones; away from noisy television sets, I was able to relax on the plane, thinking pleasant thoughts about my stay in the bush.

For more information or bookings call 01 223-608 or 097 767-404 or contact them through their website

 


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