The Star Of Sinazongwe

For many years I have been wanting to do a trip on a houseboat on Lake Kariba. But my principles would not allow it there was no way I was going to put my few tourist Kwachas into Zimbabwe. No, I wanted them spent in Zambia. But my patience has paid off - we how have a houseboat in Zambia the - Kholisa I, owned by The Houseboat Company, based at Sinazongwe and run by Dane and Wayne (a Kiwi and an Aussie) who are both ex-overland truck driver/guides . We left Lusaka, in the rain, just before 1 pm and despite some heavy rain on the Lusaka side of Mazabuka, got there just after 5 pm. Having left the rain behind in Mazabuka and dropping down to the Lake with the temperature rising, we were glad of the ice cold drinks that were immediately available. These were followed by a tour of the Kholisa I and then it was back upstairs to relax and watch the sun go down over the Lake.

Shortly after the sun had dipped over the horizon, our dinner arrived avocado mousse followed by fresh bream fillets, chips and salads and dessert all prepared by their chef, Jameson, in the kitchen on board the Kholisa I. This was followed by much talking and probably a drink or two too many and it was close to midnight (how the time flies when one has interesting and amusing company) when we made our way to our cabin.

We were on the lower deck and our room had a double bed, a built-in dressing table with a basin, a decent size cupboard for clothing and an ensuite bathroom (shower, toilet, basin). It was also air conditioned so we were assured of a cool, peaceful night.

The next morning my inbuilt 5.30 am alarm failed to go off and it was 6.30 am by the time I awoke, stumbled into the bathroom and took a shower. Make sure you turn the cold water on together with the hot water, because the hot water is just that - HOT. Taking my time in the shower and with dressing, I finally made my way out on to the deck where I was waylaid for some minutes watching the swallows flitting back and forth between the land and the mooring ropes and then 'under' the houseboat where they have built their nests. These swallows are your constant companion as the boat moves out onto the lake, they follow. Then it was upstairs for breakfast, either a continental or a cooked one, again prepared by Jameson.

Taking our time over breakfast, and enjoying the fresh breeze, we were finally ready to face the day and it was going to be a busy day there was a croc farm to visit as well as Chete and Maaze Islands. Sadly, because of time constraints, we could not do the full trip.

The full trip really depends on what you would like to do. And there is much to do. Most guests arrive late afternoon, as we did, settle in, have their dinner and retire for the night to the cool comfort of their cabins. Early next morning the Kholisa I departs for Maaze Island where it moors and guests go on a conducted tour of Zongwe Crocodile Farm which is the world's largest croc farm. This is followed by one of their delicious lunches on board.

The afternoon is then spent fishing or game viewing by tender boat, cooling down in the plunge pool or, for the sun-worshippers, catching some rays on the sundeck. To work up a thirst and appetite, late afternoon is time for a game walk on the island followed by the stunning sunsets for which Lake Kariba is known.

The next day, you can head out to Chete National Park where you are not only assured of some good game viewing but also some excellent bird watching, from the small kingfisher to the larger heron and of course, our beautiful fish eagle. The boat moors for lunch before heading up the Chete Gorge enroute to Tondolo Island. At Tondolo is a golden beach where you can get a bit of exercise and watch yet another spectacular sunset.

On the final morning, breakfast is served whilst you return to the harbour, arriving there around 9.30 am in good time for you to find your land legs again and make your way back home.

The Kholisa I has 13 rooms (in different configurations) sleeping a maximum of thirty people; eight (sleeping 18 pax) of them are air conditioned and most have en-suite bathrooms. It has three decks, the lower one which houses most of the bedrooms and the kitchen; on the middle deck is the dining area, bar with its ice cold drinks, plunge pool and the rest of the bedrooms and the top deck is the sundeck.

Currently, the Kholisa I is only available for charter by groups at the rate of US$ 880 (or Kwacha/Euro/Sterling equivalent) per day, self-catering. The cost of meals on the full catering (continental and cooked breakfast, morning tea, lunch, high tea and three-course dinner) option is US$ 15 per day for adults and US$ 10 per day for children (under 12). A chef is provided for those taking the self-catering option.

Included in the rate of US$ 880 is the use of tender boats, canoes, drinking water and ice (and of course, bedding.) Not included, but also available, is speedboat hire, fish finder, fishing tackle, bait, visits to the Croc farm, game walks and drinks.

Although the cabins are fairly small, there was sufficient space for our luggage and to move around in and they all have large windows from which to view the lake.

From Lusaka, it is an easy drive to Sinazongwe, only 340 kilometres take the Maamba turnoff at Batoka (seventy kilomtres from Monze, thirty kilometres from Choma) until you reach Sinazeze (about fifty kilometres.) This road is tarred and in fairly good condition there are a few potholes and some places where the embankment has collapsed, but these have been marked. There are also some 'dips' in the road where the base has subsided, so you are advised to drive at a moderate speed.

About two kilometres past Sinazeze is the Sinazongwe turnoff to the left. This is well signposted and from there is it only seventeen kilometres to Sinazongwe. The road is a little corrugated but if your car has reasonable clearance there is no reason why you can't reach it in an ordinary saloon car.

When you reach Sinazongwe (watch out for the speed humps on the Sinazongwe High Street!), take the right turn down to the harbour (it is signposted). From there it is only two kilometres (take the left fork where the road splits) and there is plenty of secure parking for your vehicle.

Take a look at their website. For bookings or further information, telephone Lusaka 01 223-608 or Livingstone 03 323-496 or email us

The Kholisa I is definitely the Star of Sinazongwe and I shall certainly be going back again (and again).