Where Four Countries Meet

To most people in Zambia a houseboat is synonymous with Lake Kariba. In southwest Zambia, where the borders of four countries meet, the Zambezi River’s papyrus-lined channels provide a houseboat experience with a difference.

Moored near Mambova, the Kingfisher caters for groups of up to sixteen in eight comfortable twin bed berths. The double-decked boat provides showers, toilets and a kitchen on the lower deck. Above the level of the reeds, the upper deck provides a dining area, lounging chairs, a bar and, amazingly, a Jacuzzi.

The area offers fantastic birding and fishing. Heronries and nesting sites abound. Kingfishers, herons and bee-eaters and many other species, are readily seen. The tiger and bream fishing are excellent. Traffic along the deep channels means the odd Lozi fisherman in his mokoro (dugout canoe). The natural quiet of the area makes for a relaxing get-away. One small village is called Kalata, which means “peaceful” in SiLozi.

After departing from Mambova the Kingfisher generally moors up alongside one of the few islands in the region (Ilombe, Sikoma or Ntwala). From there motorboats are provided for excursions such as visiting a local fishing village, a sunset cruise and, of course, fishing and birding outings.

If you decide to visit Kalikalika, a Lozi fishing village, be warned the kachasu is potent. Made from maize and brown sugar it is put through a basic, but effective, homemade distillery. The result is claimed to be 100% alcohol and has been used as vehicle fuel.

At the confluence of the Zambezi and Chobe Rivers, a large brown and white pole marks the spot where four countries meet. From one location you can stand in Zambia, look over Namibia to Botswana directly in front, and Zimbabwe to the left.

The area consists of reed and papyrus beds interspersed with a myriad of tributaries of the Zambezi and Chobe Rivers. One such channel, the Kasai, is 5 kilometres long and was reputedly opened up by the Germans in colonial times. It links the Zambezi and Chobe Rivers and helpfully avoids rapids on the latter that were an obstacle to trading between the countries.

In order to cross into Botswana from Zambia, immigration must be cleared in Namibia as well.

For those who have their own motorboat, the Kingfisher provides an ideal home base from which to explore the area.

If you feel you need some expert guidance on fishing in the area - or merely want someone to share the yarn about the “one that got away” with, Angle Zambia can be contacted. The company provides all equipment and a guide. Their policy of catch and release helps ensure the breeding populations of bream and tiger fish remain viable.

Rates are US$ 70 pppn and includes breakfast, lunch, dinner and transfers from Livingstone. Books can be made through Angle Zambia pm (03) 323-097, 097 870-232 or by email to annabelfaulks@yahoo.co.uk